sleeveless silk

By Brenda - Friday, October 16, 2020

It may be fall but where I live, that can mean turning on the heat one day and the air-conditioning the next. So there are still opportunities for sleeveless-ness!
The Fabric

As mentioned in an earlier post, I wasn't sure what to buy on my first trip to Mood Fabrics in New York. I settled on a few pieces of silk, since I wanted to pick up something I wasn't going to find at home. One choice was a drapey charmeuse, and then there was this cream silk that had a little more body.

The Pattern

Here is Simplicity 2725, a Project Runway pattern from 2008. It is easy to overlook some of the design options on the Project Runway patterns, as they are buried in the little sketches at the bottom. See the pink dress at the bottom? See the neckline detail? I almost didn't, but it was just what I was looking for: a simple top to wear under cardigans with a little something to keep it from being too plain.
Simple as the pattern is, there were some tweaks. The bust dart positioning looked odd, so I rotated the darts to be horizontal and moved them down 2.5 cm. If you are tall, you may have a larger frame and need a little more space from the shoulder to the bustline. The largest size, a 12, was too small so I added to the side seams. A zipper is intended for the back seam, but I just sewed most of it closed, leaving a small opening with a button loop. 
The fabric is a bit sheer, so I used narrow bindings at the neck and armholes instead of wide facings. The neckline detail was intended to be made of fabric loops, but...that's a lot of fabric loops. Not my favourite thing to make, and a lack of fabric saved me! I went with 2 cm satin ribbon instead. As designed, there is a top row of 7 loops, a middle row of 5, and a bottom row of 3. It looked a bit too fancy for casual wear, so I changed it to 5-4-3 and it is a touch simpler.

I used a favourite old button for the back closure, which has followed me from one garment to another over the years.

I am finding when a garment is not broken up with seamlines or detailing, a large expanse of fabric makes you look larger than you are. Pairing prints with plainer designs looks better to my eye, although the detail at the neck serves the purpose here.

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