moody moonstruck silk...or, lost in the mist

By Brenda - Sunday, May 03, 2020

On my first visit to Mood Fabrics in New York, I didn't have anything specific I was shopping for, so I decided on some silk from the beautiful section of choices. When I looked on the website later, the shade of the grey I came home with might be the one named "moonstruck"--and if not, I'm pretending it is. It had me under some kind of a spell, because it drove me a bit loony by the end. The pattern actually, not the fabric.

The Pattern

Silk is a bit--bouncy? Lofty? So you won't get the kind of weighted drape you might want. But the main problem I had with this pattern involved the neckline band, an area that has given me problems on similar patterns. It is challenging to get these bands precise and even, and it is obvious if they are only slightly off.

 There was no way I could get the back collar band to fit the neckline. This may have been my mistake as I was moving seams to accommodate the fabric I had. In the end, I had to splice in a piece and I'm not sure what the problem was. Notches, Burda! They would help! Also, the band is inserted as a faced unit, so you have an exposed seam on the inside which has been clipped and trimmed, and is messy to serge. The construction order needs work.

The main problem, though, is that the shoulders are too square. The picture shows how far above the natural shoulder line the design sits.

The picture on the left shows the same positioning of the blouse from the front, with that gap above the shoulder. On the right is the blouse sitting on the natural shoulder, which causes the neckline and shoulder tucks to collapse. There is no easy way to fix this after the fact, since there is no shoulder seam. Aaaaand, I didn't make a muslin so I couldn't detect the problem before it was too late.

Another challenge is that the shoulder tucks need to be carefully constructed and perfectly parallel, as pressing them just slightly off skews how they hang in this fabric, which lacks weight to keep them in place.

The back is also quite billowy due to the lightness of the fabric. But on the plus side, I pre-washed the silk with no problem. The style of this pattern is long and loose, and has a nice overall silhouette. It is breezy and cool for hot weather.

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